Essential fatty acids in skin and skincare

For years fat has been considered one of the biggest beauty enemies. For years, we have lived in a lie. Fat with its essential fatty acids is a non- negotiable ingredient of effective skin care.

Not every fat has essential fatty acids and is good for the skin

Before you get excited about deep-frying your potatoes for the benefit of beautiful skin, let’s make things clear: not every fat is good. The worst type of dietary fat is called trans fat. This byproduct of hydrogenation, a process used to turn healthy oils into solids can increase¹ :  

• Inflammation 
• Risk of diabetes 
• Risk of  stroke and heart attack 
• Amount of harmful LDL cholesterol 
• Risk of developing skin conditions

Foods including commercial baked goods, frozen or fried foods are loaded with trans fats which makes them the worst dietary choices for your skin and overall health.

Essential fatty acids for skin

You’ve been warned and now let’s focus on the good. Unsaturated fats can improve blood cholesterol levels, support cell growth, ease inflammation, stabilize heart rhythms, nourish the skin, fuel the brain, promote nutrients absorption and lower the triglyceride levels².  There are two broad categories of these beneficial fats: monounsaturated fats and polyunsaturated fats. The ones your skin loves the most fall into the second category³: 

• alpha-linolenic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid): foods high in this essential fatty acid include fish such as salmon, mackerel, tuna, herring, and sardines, vegetable oils, nuts (especially walnuts), flax seeds, flaxseed oil, and leafy vegetables⁴ 
• linoleic acid (an omega-6 fatty acid): you can find this essential fatty acid in walnuts, safflower oil, tofu, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, peanut butter, avocado, eggs, and almonds⁵   

Paying attention to the food sources of essential fatty acids is important because human body can’t make them on its own. As soon as it doesn’t get enough, the skin gets dry, dull, inflamed, prone to blackheads and irritation. Why? Because essential fatty acids play a key role in maintaining a healthy, youthful skin⁶ : 

• omega-3 and omega-6 essential fatty acids are the building blocks of healthy cell membranes
• They are responsible for normal skin function and appearance 
• They have a particular role in structural integrity and barrier function of the skin 
• omega-6 and omega-3 essential fatty acids can decrease the inflammation of the skin 
• Both consuming and supplementing the essential fatty acids can positively influence the content of epidermis 
• Essential fatty acids can reduce skin sensitivity associated with acne, psoriasis and sun exposure⁷

Thanks to essential fatty acids you can eat your way to healthy, nourished, radiant skin. To be sure you’re getting enough, include them in every meal. Start your day with a savory breakfast (avocado with eggs, full-fat Greek yogurt with nut butter, or sourdough toast with fatty fish), sprinkle your salad with raw nuts for lunch and pour a tablespoon of cold-pressed oil on your dinner. 

Essential fatty acids in skincare products

The richness of delicious foods high in essential fatty acids makes it easy to incorporate them to every meal without risking the loss of appetite. Yet, it is important to nourish the skin from the outside, too. Oral supplementation is not the only way to effectively deliver the essential fatty acids to your skin. Topical application can⁸:

• Improve skin’s moisture and elasticity 
• Reduce photo damage 
• Regulate oil production 
• Improve hydration 
• Help prevent skin breakdown 
• Reduce flaky skin 
• Accelerate skin cell renewal
• Reduce inflammation 
• Have therapeutic properties for dryness, eczema and psoriasis
• Slow down the premature aging 
• Soften fine lines

Skin care products with essential fatty acids are used for protecting, regenerating and hydrating the skin. They can be safe for every skin type, including the sensitive and mature one. The essential fatty acids were non-negotiable when creating the formulations of LAST range⁹:

Almond, borage, linseed, olive glycerides: they are are all rich in valuable fatty acids like oleic acid and palmitic acid. They also contain the linoleic and alpha-linoleic essential fatty acids and substances known for their metabolic and anti-inflammatory effects, such as gamma-linoleic acid

Cold-pressed argan oil: this oil has anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties thanks to linoleic acid and antioxidative activity due to phytosterols and squalane; it brings ease to irritated and dehydrated skin as well as regulates the sebum production of the oily one

Cold- pressed hemp seed oil: rich in linoleic acid, alpha and gamma linolenic acids (GLA), omega-6, omega-3 and omega-9 fatty acids, this oil reduces inflammation, increases elasticity of mature and dehydrated skin and reduces acne and psoriasis thanks to antibacterial and anti- inflammatory properties

Cold- pressed hemp seed oil: rich in linoleic acid, alpha and gamma linolenic acids (GLA), omega-6, omega-3 and omega-9 fatty acids, this oil reduces inflammation, increases elasticity of mature and dehydrated skin and reduces acne and psoriasis thanks to antibacterial and anti- inflammatory properties

Cold-pressed jojoba seed oil: this natural emollient has everything your skin needs for deep nourishment: it restores your skin barrier and protects it with antiviral, anti fungal, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties

Cold-pressed perilla oil: mature skin’s best friend, this oil repairs and provides powerful antioxidant protection, leaving your face safe from premature aging

Cold-pressed rosehip seed oil: even though rose is usually associated with calming irritated and sensitive skin, the properties of this precious oil are much more than that: it treats hyperpigmentation, evens out skin tone, increases collagen production and slows down cells degeneration process

Studies¹⁰ show that the essential fatty acids deficiency in the skin can be reduced by topical applications in as little as 16-25 days. 

How to use skin care products with essential fatty acids?

The essential fatty acids can be a game changer in your skin care routine. Depending on which type of plant- based source you chose, you can eliminate most of the skin conditions, from irritations to pigmentation spots. Nonetheless, there are few risks that come with using this skin care ingredient:

• Oils rich in omega fatty acids, such as coconut oils or flaxseed oil and can be comedogenic or pore-clogging so they should be used in moderation 
• Oils can cause allergies or irritation so should be patch- tested 
• Oils used alone can lead to transepidermal water loss; for the optimal benefits you can either look for a product that incorporates fatty acids directly, or use plant-based oils rich in omega fatty acid as the last step of your skin car routine 

The easiest way of incorporating the essential fatty acids to your skin care routine is to find products that have them in their formulations, such as LAST Skin Repair Serum. If you wan to use oils as separate products, remember to:

• Apply them using a patting technique to avoid pulling the skin 
• Use cold-pressed oils for maximal concentration of ingredients 
• Never use them on dry skin
• Use them in moderation to avoid clogging the pores 
• Stay consistent for long- term result 
• Let other products absorb before using your oil
• Store them away from heat, sunlight and air

Layering your skin care products right is crucial for maximizing the benefits of your skin care routine. Are you familiar with humectants, occlusives and emollients? If not, you’re probably not doing your beauty routine correctly. You can read how to improve it here.

READ MORE:

• The truth about fats: the good, the bad, and the in-between; 12 April 2022; Harvard Health Publishing; Harvard Medical School
• What Are Unsaturated Fats? Jennifer Moll PharmD; 23 March 2023; VeryWell Health
• What to know about essential fatty acids; 31 January 2023; Medical News Today
• The Nutrition Source: Types of Fat; Harvard T.H. Chan; School of Public Health
• 10 Foods High in Omega-6, and What You Should Know; 15 January 2020; Rachael Ajmera, MS, RD; Healthline
• Essential Fatty Acids and Skin Health; Copyright 2012-2023  Linus Pauling Institute; Oregon State University
• Essential fatty acids and the skin; 22 June 1990; P. Berbis; National Library of Medicine, National Center of Biotechnology Information
• The usefulness of topical application of essential fatty acids (EFA) to prevent pressure ulcers; June 1997; V. Declair; Ostomy Wound Manage, PubMed
• Essential fatty acid deficiency in neonates: inability to reverse deficiency by topical applications of EFA-rich oil; C.E. Hunt; National Library of Medicine, National Center of Biotechnology Information

Marzena Jarczak

An international model based in Paris. A researcher, copy writer and a journalist exploring for us the areas of neuroscience, brain, biohacking, living healthy life. Author of Out & About series discovering cultural life in Paris in all its aspects. A strong, wise personality with a growth mindset.